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Our Turkey-to-Greece
Sailing Adventure !

Kos to Leros

This is an example of a typical sailing itinerary from Kos to Leros. However, no two trips are ever exactly the same; one of the greatest things about a sailboat is the flexibility to change our minds and our route to suit personal preferences and prevailing wind conditions. The start and finish points are fixed, of course - but all else is changeable according to the whims of the wind gods and those on board!


Day 1 Rendezvous in Kos at 9am
. A busy, bustling metropolis, Kos town is very much the "package tour destination" of the Dodecanese - the nightlife, etc is fun for a short while, but there's nothing like waving goodbye to those the sardine-packed beaches, as we sail away to explore the "real" Greek islands…

Our destination for the afternoon is the tiny harbour of Vathi, on the island of Kalymnos. It is a very dramatic little spot; a well-hidden and very narrow fjord-like entrance, opening up into a small fishing village at the head of the bay. It boasts one main street and a collection of houses scattered into the valley; an unexpected patch of lush vegetation on an otherwise very dry and arid-looking island. Vathi is the only place on the entire island that is lucky enough to have it's own spring water supply, and they use it carefully to cultivate citrus fruits, figs, grapes and anything else that can be persuaded to grow!

It's also the home of Poppy's- one of our "adopted families" around here, where momma makes the best homemade dolmades (stuffed grapeleaves) you'll ever taste in your life, and the swordfish steaks are out of this world !!

Day 2 After a leisurely start to the morning, we'll be sailing north for our next anchorage - Paleonissos, a little-known secret tucked well away in the north of the island. It is a dramatic and wild, sheer-sided bay; little here apart from herds of goats, the sound of their bells echoing around the hillside. It's anchorages like this which make landlubbers fall in love with the cruising lifestyle ! With no distracting light around, the night sky is a dramatic sight; many an hour has been spent sitting on deck / on the beach simply star-gazing.

Our unlikely-seeming dinner spot is a hike-and-scramble 5mins inland, through bushes of sweet-smelling sage - to the backyard of our local buddy Nicolas. Nick is quite the eccentric and entertaining character, who delights in telling stories of the old Kalymnian sponge divers, and inviting his music-loving companions from nearby villages to serenade us!

Day 3 Sail to Pandeli Bay, a beautiful little bay on the east coast of Leros. This is one of the prettiest anchorages to sail into you can imagine; a horseshoe-shaped bay with traditional blue-and-white houses scattered down the hillside; 11th century fortress which towers over the bay; a couple of little beach tavernas just 2 mins swim from the boat. For those with nighttime energy to burn off, there is the infamous Savana Bar… a very idiosyncratic little local hangout, where we often end up dancing the night away !


Day 4 Our destination for today will depend on wind conditions - if it is not too strong from the north, we will sail for Marathi; a truly tiny little island which is home to just three families; a real sandy beach, and sparkling clear water to swim and snorkel. A beautifully tranquil spot, this little place has the most incredibly relaxing "vibes" , a very soothing balm to the stressed-out-city-living-spirit !

Our alternative for the day is Lipsos - island of the 42 blue-domed churches! It is a small, untouristy village, with an unruly array of whitewashed buildings scattered around the bay. The vivid streaks of traditional blue trim and the blazing bougainvillea pinks & purples make it a real photographers' dream! To cool off, there is a lovely little sandy beach, 5mins walk over the hill from where we moor the boats, and a great hike out to the point for those needing to burn off some of those calamari !

If we're lucky and conditions are calm, we may be able to visit Macro Nisi (the "cave" island) for a swim stop en route. It's a secluded little anchorage with sheer-sided cliffs, which have been known to entice the braver (or more foolhardy !) amongst us to throw caution to the wind and leap off them ! For those more inclined to be adventurous in/under the water, there's also a swim-through hole to snorkel through to the cave the other side.


Day 5 Sail to Patmos
- an early start to make the most of exploring the famous Monastery Island, where St John was inspired by visions to write the Book of Revelations. The 10th century monastery (built by Crusader Knights) reigns over the island, still an active and influential part of daily life here. The village that lies at the foot of the monastery is everyone's romantic image of a Greek village; narrow winding alleyways scarcely wide enough for a skinny donkey! - cats sunning themselves on whitewashed streets, old ladies in black collecting fresh bread from the bakery in the morning. It's well worth an early rise to get up there in the early morning hours; the old ladies will look at you in faint amazement that a foreigner should find their way up there at such an hour; if you can remember enough of our Greek lessons to say "kalimera!" (good morning), they'll give you a huge smile and a "kalimera-sas" back (good morning to you too!)

The island's attractions are not solely for culture/history buffs, however - there are dozens of little beaches and bays to explore, the old priest who looks after the island's stray cats to visit (who just so happens to be a former choreographer for Liz Taylor!); and last but not least, the greatest milkshakes and homemade pies on "Quiche Beach" !

Day 6 Set sail southwards again - a lovely downwind leg of around 3-4 hours. Stop for lunch and swim at Archangelos, a tiny island whose turquoise-coloured waters make wonderful "make-'em-totally-jealous-back-home" shots ! We'll end in the main port of Lakki (on Leros) late afternoon.

There's one last chance to soak up the sun on the little beach just around the corner from the yachts, or maybe just chill out with a beer / ice-cream frappe in the marina's taverna. Farewell dinner at Vromolithos - a beautiful beachfront taverna with amazing views over the bay - and, for a final night's grand finale - live Greek music !


Day 7 Disembarkation 9am in Lakki.


Ongoing connection info: One flight per day Leros- Athens, departs approx 10.30am. There are usually 2-3 hydrofoil connections to Samos and Kos per day; takes 2-2.5hrs. These slands have 4-5 flights per day back to Athens.
It is also possible to get the overnight ferry to Athens; departs late evening, usually between 10-12pm. Takes 8-10hrs. Cabins are comfortable and it is quite a fun, relaxing trip usually. The ferry dock is 5mins walk from our marina base; the airport is 15mins taxi ride.
Connections to Turkey; 1-2 ferries per day from Samos-Kusadasi ; 2 ferries daily from Kos to either Bodrum or Turgutreis. The fast catamaran connects Leros to Rhodes twice a day; there are also ferries from Rhodes-Marmaris


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