Our
Turkey-to-Greece
Sailing Adventure !
Leros
to Keci Buku
This is an example
of a typical itinerary on our Greece-to-Turkey trips. However,
no two trips are ever exactly the same; one of the greatest things
about being on a sailboat is the flexibility to change our minds
and our route to suit personal preferences, prevailing wind conditions,
etc. The start and finish points are fixed, of course - but all
else is changeable according to the whims of the wind gods and
those on board!
Day 1 Embark 11am
in Lakki (main harbour on Leros). After boat briefing, unpacking,
and generally getting comfortable with the yacht, we'll set sail
for Lipsos - island of the 42 blue-domed churches! It is the perfect
introduction to "traditional Greece"; a small, untouristy
village, with an unruly array of whitewashed buildings scattered
around the bay. The vivid streaks of traditional blue trim and
the blazing bougainvillea pinks & purples make it a real photographers'
dream!
To cool off, there
is a lovely little sandy beach, 5mins walk over the hill from
where we moor the boats, and a great hike out to the point for
those needing to burn off some of those calamari !
If we're lucky and
conditions are calm, we may be able to visit Macro Nisi (the "cave"
island) for a swim stop en route. It's a secluded little anchorage
with sheer-sided cliffs, which have been known to entice the braver
(or more foolhardy !) amongst us to throw caution to the wind
and leap off them ! For those more inclined to be adventurous
in/under the water, there's also a swim-through hole to snorkel
through to the cave the other side.
Day 2 After
chance to wander around the village of Lipsos, we'll head out
mid-morning for Arki - a little island which boasts a permanent
population of just 47 people ! (The population expands considerably
if you count the goats, however). There is just one tiny port,
a few houses scattered down the hillside - and most of all, Manoli's
place ! Mr Cool Dude Manoli runs a wonderful little oasis of a
taverna; cushions scattered around the shady patio, speakers hidden
away in the trees; Manoli has great taste in music and the most
incredible CD collection and sound system you can imagine on an
island of 47 people! Get him in the right mood, and he's also
a hot dancer
as are all his nieces and nephews !
Day 3 Sail to Patmos
- an early start to make the most of exploring the famous Monastery
Island, where St John was inspired by visions to write the Book
of Revelations. The 10th century monastery (built by Crusader
Knights) reigns over the island, still an active and influential
part of daily life here. The village that lies at the foot of
the monastery is everyone's romantic image of a Greek village;
narrow winding alleyways scarcely wide enough for a skinny donkey!
- cats sunning themselves on whitewashed streets, old ladies in
black collecting fresh bread from the bakery in the morning. It's
well worth an early rise to get up there in the early morning
hours; the old ladies will look at you in faint amazement that
a foreigner should find their way up there at such an hour; if
you can remember enough of our Greek lessons to say "kalimera!"
(good morning), they'll give you a huge smile and a "kalimera-sas"
back (good morning to you too) ! (Note: that's "kali-MER-a",
not "calamari" ! :> ).
The island's attractions
are not solely for culture/history buffs, however - there are
dozens of little beaches and bays to explore, the old priest who
looks after the island's strays to visit (our ex-Liz-Taylor's-choreographer!);
and last but not least, the greatest milkshakes and homemade pies
on "Quiche Beach" !
Day 4 Sail for Pandeli,
a beautiful little bay on the east side of Leros. This is one
of the prettiest anchorages to sail into you can imagine; a horseshoe-shaped
bay with traditional blue-and-white houses scattered down the
hillside; 11th century fortress which towers over the bay; a couple
of little beach tavernas just 2 mins swim from the boat. Try sitting
and watching the moon rise from one of these tavernas, boat in
the foreground, the lapping of waves almost at your feet
it's a total "Shirley Valentine" scene ! For those with
more energy to burn off later, there is the infamous Savana Bar
a very idiosyncratic little local hangout, where we often end
up dancing the night away till the wee small hours! Another great
island to rent scooters and explore.
Day 5 Leave Pandeli
around midday, giving us the morning to make the most of our time
on Leros. Paleonissos is our destination - a little-known secret
of the next island south, Kalymnos. A complete contrast - a dramatic,
sheer-sided bay tucked well away in the north of the island; anchorages
like this are what make landlubbers fall in love with the cruising
lifestyle ! There is little here apart from herds of goats; at
dusk and dawn, the sound of their bells echoes around the hillside
- not a bad alarm call ! With no distracting light around, the
night sky is a dramatic sight; many an hour has been spent sitting
on deck / on the beach simply star-gazing. Our unlikely-seeming
dinner spot is a hike-and-scramble 5mins inland, through bushes
of sweet-smelling sage - to the backyard of our local buddy Nicolas,
an eccentric character who delights in telling stories of the
old Kalymnian sponge fishers, and inviting his music-loving companions
from nearby villages to serenade us!
Day 6 A leisurely
morning, then a short downwind sail to Vathi - a well-hidden and
very narrow fjord-like entrance, opening up into a tiny fishing
village at the head of the bay. It boasts one main street and
a collection of houses scattered into the valley; an unexpected
patch of lush vegetation on an otherwise very dry and arid-looking
island. Vathi is the only place on the entire island that is lucky
enough to have it's own spring water supply, and they use it carefully
to cultivate citrus fruits, figs, grapes and anything else that
can be persuaded to grow! It's also the home of "Poppy's"
- a wonderful little family taverna, where Poppy's mom makes the
best homemade dolmades (stuffed grapeleaves) you'll ever taste
in your life, and the swordfish steaks are out of this world !!
Note: this anchorage
is very dependent on prevailing weather conditions; should they
not be favourable, we will sail on to Kos and spend the night
there instead.
Day 7 An early
am sail for Kos - yes, we're talking sunrise here !! It's a beautiful
time to be out on the water
. if you've never experienced
this before, it's well worth dragging yourself out of bed! Kos
is where we officially clear out of Greece, which - Greek bureaucracy
being as it is, can take a while. So whilst the skipper(s) deal
with paperwork, there is plenty of time to go see the castle and
the famous plane tree where Hippocrates supposedly taught (for
the more culturally-inclined); or enjoy a great chocolate milkshake
on the busy waterfront for others!
This is the disembarkation
point for those sailing with us for the first week. Rendezvous
for those joining for wk2 is usually Turgutreis; it may sometimes
be possible to join in Kos on shareboat trips.
Passports duly stamped,
we will set sail for Turgutreis - a very lively, up-and-coming
little town, and our official check-in point to Turkey! The contrast
to Greece is striking - their plush new marina is beautifully
organized, swimming pool and all sorts of other surprising facilities
for such a small place. Happily, the place has not (yet!) grown
into a major mass-tourist centre like Bodrum; the little town
still has a very local ambiance; lots of very fun shopping in
the winding bazaar streets! - and some lovely little waterfront
bars and tavernas overlooking the sandy beach. And the most spectacular
sunsets to enjoy with our evening cocktails
!
Day 8 Sail south
for Palamut - a little traditional fishing village. One of
our longer sails, this will be around 4hours - if the prevailing
wind gods are with us, we'll have a lovely beam reach for most
of the way ! In the morning, our buddies at the local taverna
can organize a minibus to Knidos - about 30mins drive, taking
in a little of the "local colour" and life en route.
Knidos: Once upon a
time, back around 400-500BC, this was a key city/harbour in the
ancient world, home to many thousands of people. The harbour silted
up over the years, and the city was abandoned, leaving now just
a deserted, tranquil bay. However, the remains of these former
civilizations can still be seen scattered around the hills, surrounding
the bay on all three sides. There are amphitheatres, stone pillars
and carvings, temple remains - all incredibly intact. It is really
a time warp experience to wander around these hills and try to
imagine the way of life all those thousands of years ago.
Day 9 Sail to Ova
Buku. This tiny, out-of-the-way spot is often voted top favourite
of the entire trip! It's not even big enough to rate the title
of "village" ! - what it does have is a lovely little
sandy beach, perfect for diving straight off the boat to cool
off; or for those looking for a little more privacy, a short hike
away is a lovely long and isolated beach. But what defines Ova
Buku most of all is - "Ogun's Place"! "Ogun's"
is an experience hard to describe; a great little beachfront taverna,
hang-out-and-chill-out spot for afternoon beers - and the best
home-cooked Turkish food imaginable! But much more than this is
the very fun and entertaining ambiance created by our young, lively
host, Ogun. Belly-dancing, "Ogun's Airways" - you just
have to be there to experience it ! :>
Day 10 Sail to Datca
- a very lively little town! The waterfront is lined little bars
and tavernas; one street behind are several interesting craft
& jewellery shops. Walking towards the beach, there is a tiny
lake, with a surprisingly powerful "mini-waterfall"
as it runs into the ocean; a great and very cooling massage experience
!! For those wanting to dance the night away, Datca has several
lively bars and nightspots - and a "hamam" (Turkish
baths) , to ease any aching muscles the next morning !
There's also a couple
of other interesting inland trips we can organize for those interested;
check out a local olive farm (taste-testing included !) , a chance
to see the very pretty old Greek town which was abandoned when
the Greeks and Turks did their "swap" post WW2. We'll
usually do these in the morning, before setting sail for -
Day 11 Bozburun
- back to the less developed, more traditional Turkey! This little
village is home to a still-thriving wooden boat-building industry
- all the old craftsmanship lives on here. We dock just outside
the town, on a wooden jetty owned by a little family-run pension/restaurant
right on the waterfront. It is a shady, tranquil little spot to
hang out in - their hammocks and sun loungers are all ours to
use - and we even get to borrow their fun kayaks plus a windsurfer
or two to go explore the bay in!
Day 12 A gentle
run to Dirsek, a secluded little bay about 2 hours sail away.
A little taverna lies nestled in one corner, a blaze of brightly-coloured
bougainvillea and other greenery. Wonderful place to swim and
generally veg out.
Day 13 Sail to Keci
Buku. A well-sheltered hideout described as a "gem"
in the Turkish Waters Pilot - and it truly is. A wide, sweeping
bay surrounded by pine forests, with a fascinating old fortress
perched on the top of an island guarding the entrance - a view
which is well worth the scramble up! It is also just 30 mins drive
from Marmaris - the easiest connection back to the "real
world" of modern-day Turkey, where you can shop-till-you-drop
some more; or just head on through and back to Dalaman, the closest
airport, and domestic connections to Istanbul. Twice daily ferry
connections also from Marmaris-Rhodes.
Day 14 Disembark
9am in Keci Buku
Ongoing connection
info: We
can help arrange transportation from Keci Buku to Marmaris or
Dalaman airport. Ferries Marmaris-Rhodes (Greece) run twice a
day; approx 9am and 3.30pm. For those with tight connections,
it is possible to get the 9am ferry on the morning of departure,
just means getting up a little early! Transfer time Keci Buku
is 30mins. Transfer time Keci Buku to Dalaman is approx 90 mins.
Several flights per day to Istanbul.
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