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Our Turkey-to-Greece
Sailing Adventure !

Leros to Kos

This is an example of a typical itinerary on our Greece-to-Turkey trips. However, no two trips are ever exactly the same; one of the greatest things about being on a sailboat is the flexibility to change our minds and our route to suit personal preferences, prevailing wind conditions, etc. The start and finish points are fixed, of course - but all else is changeable according to the whims of the wind gods and those on board!

Day 1 Embark 11am in Lakki (main harbour on Leros). After boat briefing, unpacking, and generally getting comfortable with the yacht, we'll set sail for Lipsos - island of the 42 blue-domed churches! It is the perfect introduction to "traditional Greece"; a small, untouristy village, with an unruly array of whitewashed buildings scattered around the bay. The vivid streaks of traditional blue trim and the blazing bougainvillea pinks & purples make it a real photographers' dream!

To cool off, there is a lovely little sandy beach, 5mins walk over the hill from where we moor the boats, and a great hike out to the point for those needing to burn off some of those calamari !

If we're lucky and conditions are calm, we may be able to visit Macro Nisi (the "cave" island) for a swim stop en route. It's a secluded little anchorage with sheer-sided cliffs, which have been known to entice the braver (or more foolhardy !) amongst us to throw caution to the wind and leap off them ! For those more inclined to be adventurous in/under the water, there's also a swim-through hole to snorkel through to the cave the other side.

Day 2 After chance to wander around the village of Lipsos, we'll head out mid-morning for Arki - a little island which boasts a permanent population of just 47 people ! (The population expands considerably if you count the goats, however). There is just one tiny port, a few houses scattered down the hillside - and most of all, Manoli's place. Mr Cool Dude Manoli runs a wonderful little oasis of a taverna; cushions scattered around the shady patio, speakers hidden away in the trees; Manoli has great taste in music and the most incredible CD collection and sound system you can imagine on an island of 47 people! Get him in the right mood, and he's also a hot dancer… as are all his nieces and nephews !

Day 3 Sail to Patmos - an early start to make the most of exploring the famous Monastery Island, where St John was inspired by visions to write the Book of Revelations. The 10th century monastery (built by Crusader Knights) reigns over the island, still an active and influential part of daily life here. The village that lies at the foot of the monastery is everyone's romantic image of a Greek village; narrow winding alleyways scarcely wide enough for a skinny donkey! - cats sunning themselves on whitewashed streets, old ladies in black collecting fresh bread from the bakery in the morning. It's well worth an early rise to get up there in the early morning hours; the old ladies will look at you in faint amazement that a foreigner should find their way up there at such an hour; if you can remember enough of our Greek lessons to say "kalimera!" (good morning), they'll give you a huge smile and a "kalimera-sas" back (good morning to you too) ! (Note: that's "kali-MER-a", not "calamari" ! :> ).

The island's attractions are not solely for culture/history buffs, however - there are dozens of little beaches and bays to explore, the old priest who looks after the island's strays to visit (our ex-Liz-Taylor's-choreographer!); and last but not least, the greatest milkshakes and homemade pies on "Quiche Beach" !

Day 4 Sail for Pandeli, a beautiful little bay on the east side of Leros. This is one of the prettiest anchorages to sail into you can imagine; a horseshoe-shaped bay with traditional blue-and-white houses scattered down the hillside; 11th century fortress which towers over the bay; a couple of little beach tavernas just 2 mins swim from the boat. Try sitting and watching the moon rise from one of these tavernas, boat in the foreground, the lapping of waves almost at your feet… it's a total "Shirley Valentine" scene ! For those with more energy to burn off later, there is the infamous Savana Bar… a very idiosyncratic little local hangout, where we often end up dancing the night away till the wee small hours! Another great island to rent scooters and explore.


Day 5 Leave Pandeli around midday, giving us the morning to make the most of our time on Leros. Paleonissos is our destination - a little-known secret of the next island south, Kalymnos. A complete contrast - a dramatic, sheer-sided bay tucked well away in the north of the island; anchorages like this are what make landlubbers fall in love with the cruising lifestyle ! There is little here apart from herds of goats; at dusk and dawn, the sound of their bells echoes around the hillside - not a bad alarm call ! With no distracting light around, the night sky is a dramatic sight; many an hour has been spent sitting on deck / on the beach simply star-gazing. Our unlikely-seeming dinner spot is a hike-and-scramble 5mins inland, through bushes of sweet-smelling sage - to the backyard of our local buddy Nicolas, an eccentric character who delights in telling stories of the old Kalymnian sponge fishers, and inviting his music-loving companions from nearby villages to serenade us!

Day 6 A leisurely morning, then a short downwind sail to Vathi - a well-hidden and very narrow fjord-like entrance, opening up into a tiny fishing village at the head of the bay. It boasts one main street and a collection of houses scattered into the valley; an unexpected patch of lush vegetation on an otherwise very dry and arid-looking island. Vathi is the only place on the entire island that is lucky enough to have it's own spring water supply, and they use it carefully to cultivate citrus fruits, figs, grapes and anything else that can be persuaded to grow! It's also the home of "Poppy's" - a wonderful little family taverna, where Poppy's mom makes the best homemade dolmades (stuffed grapeleaves) you'll ever taste in your life, and the swordfish steaks are out of this world !!

Note: this anchorage is very dependent on prevailing weather conditions; should they not be favourable (or if the group prefers a night on the town in Kos), we will sail on and spend the night in Kos there instead.

Day 7 An early am sail for Kos - yes, we're talking sunrise here !! It's a beautiful time to be out on the water…. if you've never experienced this before, it's well worth dragging yourself out of bed! Kos is where we officially clear out of Greece, which - Greek bureaucracy being as it is, can take a while. So whilst the skipper(s) deal with paperwork, there is plenty of time to go see the castle and the famous plane tree where Hippocrates supposedly taught (for the more culturally-inclined); or enjoy a great chocolate milkshake on the busy waterfront for others!

Disembark 9am in Kos.

Fantasy Travel of Greece
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