Our
Turkey-to-Greece
Sailing Adventure !
Leros
to Samos
This is an example
of a typical itinerary on our Leros-Samos route. However, no two
trips are ever exactly the same; one of the greatest things about
being on a sailboat is the flexibility to change our minds and
our route to suit personal preferences, prevailing wind conditions,
etc. The start and finish points are fixed, of course - but all
else is changeable according to the whims of the wind gods and
those on board !
Day 1 Your yacht
will be awaiting you at 11am in Lakki (main harbour, west coast
of Leros). We'll have drinks, boat chat, show you the ropes -
and then head off for our first destination of Vathi; a relaxing
downwind sail to ease those landlubberly legs into shape slowly!
About 3 hrs sail time.
Vathi is a dramatic
little spot; a well-hidden and very narrow fjord-like entrance,
opening up into a tiny fishing village at the head of the bay.
It boasts one main street and a collection of houses scattered
into the valley; an unexpected patch of lush vegetation on an
otherwise very dry and arid-looking island. Vathi is the only
place on the entire island that is lucky enough to have it's own
spring water supply, and they use it carefully to cultivate citrus
fruits, figs, grapes and anything else that can be persuaded to
grow!
It's also the home
of Poppy's taverna - one of our "adopted families" around
here, where momma makes the best homemade dolmades (stuffed grapeleaves)
you'll ever taste in your life, and the swordfish steaks are out
of this world !!
Day 2 Sail to Paleonissos
- a little-known secret of Kalymnos! Another dramatic and mountainous
bay, tucked well away in the north of the island; anchorages like
this are what make landlubbers fall totally in love with the cruising
lifestyle ! There is little here apart from herds of goats; at
dusk and dawn, the sound of their bells echoes around the hillside.
With no distracting light around, the night sky is a dramatic
sight; many an hour has been spent sitting on deck / on the beach
simply star-gazing. Our unlikely-seeming dinner spot is a hike-and-scramble
5mins inland, through bushes of sweet-smelling sage - to the backyard
of our local buddy Nicolas. Nick is a very eccentric character
who delights in telling stories of the old Kalymnian sponge divers,
and sometimes invites his music-loving companions from nearby
villages to serenade us - bouzouki, guitar or even a goat-bladder
(yes, really!)
Day 3 After
breakfast and morning swims, we'll sail to Pandeli Bay on the
east coast of Leros. This is one of the prettiest anchorages to
sail into you can imagine; a horseshoe-shaped bay with traditional
blue-and-white houses scattered down the hillside; 11th century
fortress which towers over the bay; a couple of little beach tavernas
just 2 mins swim from the boat. For those with plenty of night-owl
energy, there is the infamous Savana Bar - a very idiosyncratic
little local hangout, where we often end up dancing the night
away!
Day 4 Sail to Agathonissi
- approx 3-4hrs. A small, traditional island with just one fishing
port, plus two tiny villages perched on top of the hillside; a
population of just 150 people. On arrival, we'll no doubt be greeted
by our host Giorgos - a.k.a. Unofficial Harbour Master and Ouzo
King of Agathonissi ! A colourful evening at George's is usually
on the menu; he loves to see our yachts sailing in - it's a great
excuse for a party on an otherwise quiet and isolated island.
Day 5 Early morning
sail to Marathi - a truly tiny little island with a sandy,
horseshoe-shaped beach, beautiful water to swim and snorkel in;
a totally tranquil and peaceful spot. If you could paint a picture
of the perfect, idyllic island retreat, Marathi would be it !
There are just three families living here; wonderfully friendly
and hospitable people. Great food too!! This place is a magical
balm for the stressed-out city-living soul
.so much so that
it's often been hard to persuade people that, really, we should
leave, there are other islands to visit ! Sail time: approx 3hrs.
Day 6 Sail to Samos
- a real contrast from the last two tiny, remote little islands!
Samos is quite the upmarket, cosmopolitan island; the little harbour
of Pythagorion is lined with dozens of tavernas along the waterfront.
Pythagorion is the birthplace of the famous mathematician, Pythagoras;
who had a most ingenious way of making sure his students did not
drink too much wine at his lectures. Check out the "Pythagoras
Cup"! It's a pretty little port; can get somewhat crowded
and noisy in mid-summer months; definitely the place to hit the
town and live up the nightlife for those so inclined!
For those staying on longer in Samos - there is plenty to see
and do ! Samos is beautifully green, with mountains covered with
pine forests, streams, stunning cliffs and beaches - quite a contrast
to most of the other Dodecanese islands, which aren't exactly
what you'd call lush. We'd highly recommend renting a jeep and
exploring all over the island for a day. There is also the chance
to take a daytrip to Turkey and visit Kusadasi and Ephesus - great
bargain-hunting in Kusadasi's maze of bazaars, and immensely impressive
ruins of the ancient city at Ephesus (the Acropolis has nothing
on this ! ).
Day 7 Disembark 9am in Samos.
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