Leros
Home sweet home. Leros
is our base island, and also one of our top favourites in all
the Dodecanese. Tell your friends youre sailing
from Leros and they will almost certainly say "Where?"
Good!! Thats how we want to keep it!
The island is around 20 miles long, 5 miles wide - the perfect
size for a days scooter exploration! Its picture-postcard
Greece: the stark blue and white houses, garnished with the brilliant
pinks and purples of bougainvillea. The little bays and beaches,
traditional fishingvillages:
its everything one imagines that a Greek island should be.
There is no "package tourism" ; visitors are still seen
as guests, and the locals are still genuinely friendly and welcoming.
Even better: as this has been our "home" for several
years, were very much part of the local community, and the
locals always give our SeaScape sailors an extra big welcome!
One person this applies
to especially is our friend Tony, who owns the Ara Hotel on Leros.
Not only is it a wonderful little spot, with exceptional views,
great swimming pool, etc - Tony & his father Frank always
look after our SeaScape sailors like family!
Lipsos
The
island of the 42 blue-domed churches. Lipsos is a very Greek,
untouristy little town; a photographers dream for its
traditional blue and white houses and multitude of churches.
Theres a great little sandy beach just a couple of minutes
from where we dock the boat: and if conditions are calm, theres
also a wonderful little bay around the corner where we can anchor
out and watch the stars at night.
For those who have
gotten addicted to the little 50cc scooters weve been playing
with on Patmos and Leros: theres another chance here to
rent a bike and go explore isolated bays and beaches.
Marathi
Theres
something about Marathi which seems to emanate total tranquility--a
feeling which is absorbed almost through the skin, like the vitamin
D of the Greek sunshine. We often seem to have trouble dragging
people away from this little isolated paradise island. Just two
families live here in true Greek style, there are of course, two
tavernas!
A tiny, ruined church
sits at the top of the hill; many an evening has been spent saluting
the Sun God with a good bottle of wine or two, and taking the
most spectacular sunset photos!
Patmos
This is
the famous religious island, where the 10th century monastery
(built by Crusader Knights) reigns over the island; where St
John (as of Apostle
fame) was inspired by visions to write the Book of Revelations.
The village that lies at the foot of the monastery is everyones
romantic image of what a Greek village should be; incredibly narrow,
winding alleyways, cats sunning themselves on whitewashed streets,
old ladies in black collecting fresh bread from the bakery in
the morning.
Down in the main harbour of Skala, it is a totally different picture.
This is the modern part of the island, built comparatively recently:
a mere 200 years ago! Typically Mediterranean, it has the tavernas
and bars lining the waterfront as usual; and some unusual crafts
shops in the back streets. Despite its standing as the Aegeans
most holy island, that of course doesnt stop the Greeks
dancing and partying on till the wee small hours here!
Arki
Though
Skala is a fun town, it can be noisy at night, so we do also have
a little secret spot just around a couple of headlands; a quiet
little beach from which we can still visit town, but return home
to the boat where its peaceful and quiet. And still jump
straight off the boat for an early morning swim too!
The island of 37 inhabitants
- not counting the goats! Sailing into the little fishing village,it
feels like a totally different planet to the buzzing metropolis
of Samos, just 25 miles north.Some
of the older folks here have scarcely left the island in decades,
and everyone issomeones cousin.
The main "cool" spot on Arki is Manolis taverna.
A little shaded courtyard, withspeakers arranged randomly in the
trees - its a music and flower-filled oasis onthis rocky
little island. The owner is most definitely "Mr Cool":
Manoli has lived foryears in Athens and Germany, but chose to
return to his home island for the quiet life.Happily for us, he
also brought back with him a great love and collection of music:
it's notunusual for a spontaneous evening of dancing to break
out here!
A 15 min hike up the
hill to an tiny old church gives a breath-taking view of the surroundingislands.
Kalymnos
Our little hidey-hole
on the island of Kalymnos is Vathi: a well-hidden and very dramatic
little spot.
It
has a narrow fjord-like entrance, opening up into a tiny fishing
village at the head of the bay. It boasts one main street and
a collection of houses scattered into the valley; an unexpected
patch of lush vegetation on an otherwise very dry and arid-looking
island. Vathi is the only place on the entire island that is lucky
enough to have its own spring water supply, and they use
it carefully to cultivate citrus fruits, figs, grapes and anything
else that can be persuaded to grow!
Its also the
home of "Poppys": a little taverna which has developed
a well-deserved reputation
amongst the yachties for the best swordfish steaks in the Aegean!
What is not so widely known is that momma also makes the best
homemade dolmades (stuffed vine-leaves) you will ever taste -
and as the folks at Poppys are one of our "adopted
families", she always makes them for us when she knows we
are coming!
Kalymnos is also famous
for its natural sponges, and there are a couple of little
shops in the village where you can buy these and also the most
beautiful and intricate hand-embroidery, traditionally done by
the local nuns.
Agathonissi
A
total population of around 150 people on this little fishing island
One of the most colourful being our buddy Giorgos, or "George."
As unofficial harbourmaster of his island, George has also earned
the title of Ouzo King beware anyone who
likes to drink this evil stuff!
George and family are always real happy to see our boats sailing
in any excuse for a party is a good excuse to most Greeks,
and George more so than most! The happy news for George is that
he got married last year, and so his partying is a tad more limited
now. BUT the happy news for us is that a love of dancing seems
to run in the family, and his his 18yr old nephew, Spiros, has
enthusiastically leapt into Georges shoes. So dance classes
are back on the menu at Georges taverna!
Samos
The
bright lights and buzz of modern day Greek life: Samos is one
of the biggest and most cosmopolitan island we visit. The little
harbour of Pythagorion is the birthplace of - you guessed it -
Pythagoras! - and there are still many reminders of his former
presence here. Its a lively, fun spot; the waterfront is
lined with dozens of tavernas and bars; and the traditional Greek
evening promenade is always great entertainment.
The active nightlife of Pythagorion is only one aspect of Samos
however: the other major
attraction of the island is once you get away from the main port
and into the interior. We often rent jeeps and do a "mini-jeep
safari" here: hike to a waterfall, then an invigorating swim-and-climb
up the falls for the more adventurous amongst us! Then we might
wind our way up steep, switchback roads into the mountains to
see the famous Samos wineries; or explore the Valley of the Nightingales.
Samos is very close
to the Turkish coast, and for those interested, there is an opportunity
to do a daytrip to Turkey, to visit the busy bazaars of Kusadasi
and the extensive 500BC ruins at Ephesus (the Acropolis doesnt
even hold a candle to this ancient city: it is truly impressive)!
Tiganakia
Nicknamed
"Caribbean Cove" by the locals, this is a truly stunning
little spot. Bright turquoise water, a tiny sandy cove that we
swim / snorkel to: and usually, we have the whole place to ourselves!
Great for the "clothing optional" fans amongst us!
Tiganakia makes a wonderful lunch n swim stop; one we have
to do when the winds are low, however, as its not totally
protected in strong winds. Then for the evening, were usually
off to nearby Arki or Marathi for the night!
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