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This archaeological feature was first published on About.com's
archaeology pages
How do you go about making an archaeological tour?
A number of first rate ingredients are required - great sites,
seamless logistics, and a passionate and knowledgeable guide.
Perhaps the biggest element of all for me when planning a tour
is the story. I don't want to simply arrange a route around a
series of isolated historical ruins, instead I want to weave a
fascinating tale, a historical back-story where each ancient city
we visit is like a jigsaw piece that sheds ever more light on
the region's history and culture. Some stories are intrinsically
obvious like travelling across Turkey in the footsteps of Alexander
the Great, but others require much more careful consideration.
The recce
It
all starts with a 'recce', going out to make an on the ground
reconnaissance of the sites in a proposed tour area. To me this
is like a marvellous adventure, I'm like a child in a sweet shop
trying to decide where and what I should start with, perhaps something
Greek or maybe Byzantine, perhaps a small but untouched temple
standing romantically lost in olive groves or a giant Roman city,
like Ephesus, packed with tourists. I love the energy and buzz
of visiting new sites, but on a recce I am preoccupied with all
the practical things that need to be thought through, especially
how to pick and then unite the most special of sites into a compelling
and cohesive tour.
Know your way around
I remember the first time I ever led an archaeological tour back
in the spring of 1996. I was asked by a UK travel company to step
in as tour leader eight days before a trip exploring ancient Caria
in Turkey. At first I declined because I hadn't visited half the
sites on the itinerary and wouldn't dream of taking a group anywhere
I hadn't been. When they called the next day and asked me again,
I agreed provided they fly me out the next day and hire me a jeep
with driver so I could tear around the sites on a whirlwind recce.
It was a baptism of fire, but one that has stood me in very good
stead. One of the most important lessons I learned was it doesn't
matter how much you know of a site's history if you don't know
your way around.
The best approach
In fact the first thing I do when I get to a site is let all the
history disappear from my head. For me the first walk around a
site is all about practicalities, not least where do I want to
begin. More often than not I choose to avoid the specified main
entrance and approach a site from a different angle - both physically
and historically. I like to enter on an ancient road if possible,
like the sacred way leading to the temple of Apollo at Didyma.
I like to create a sense of drama, as at Stratonikeia, a Hellenistic
foundation in Caria.
Ancient
theatre at Stratonikeia, in Carian Turkey
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A mile
away from the main entrance I take groups on a small path through
trees, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, which suddenly caves
away into a vast theatre with a breathtaking view. If the site
is overgrown, and in rural Turkey one goat path looks pretty much
like the others, sometimes it's just a case of finding the best
way around.
Round and round
Once I've figured out my route around the site, I rewalk the whole
route again, and again. Navigation around a site is paramount.
When I'm showing a group around I don't want to be spending my
time trying to find my way, and I certainly want my route pre-planned
to the best historical and dramatic effect.
Research
After that it's a case of scouring the libraries to pull out the
latest excavation and survey reports. That's where a top quality
tour guide comes into their own, fresh knowledge and a lively
perspective, rather than a spiel learned by rote, or material
regurgitated from age old guide books.
The sense of journey
Back in the office maps are pulled out and it all comes down to
matching up the sites, the story, and the logistics. Many of the
tours I arrange are archaeological cruises in Turkey aboard handbuilt
wooden gulets. They're a marvellous way to step back in time,
not only do you avoid the hotel changes, the roads, and traffic,
but it's often the best means of exploring ancient civilisations,
like the Lycians, who were essentially maritime, geared to the
sea.
What
finer way to visit a city like Knidos, where Praxiteles infamous
naked statue of Aphrodite once stood, than to sail straight into
its old commercial harbour and drop anchor beside its ancient
mooring stones. Travel is a key element in the stories I tell,
and whether a tour is based on roads or the sea I always try and
make a virtue of the transport, by drawing on ancient parallels
- be it shipwrecks, travel writing, or the classical tourists
and pilgrims who visited the same sites and even bought tacky
souvenirs.
A story unfolds
When creating the final tour itinerary, geography and logistics
often carry the deciding vote, but if possible I love to start
small and build. I think our Lycian cruise works that idea almost
perfectly. The first few sites are in breathtaking locations,
but in themselves the ruins are scant. They give everyone a chance
to get their bearings, to settle into the landscape, and perhaps
marvel at one broken tomb, a few inscribed stones, or the odd
piece of sculpture lying on the ground. As the days go by, the
sites get bigger and more impressive, one has a Byzantine church,
the next has a theatre, another has a baths... so each location
adds another layer of understanding, another facet of ancient
architecture and city life. By the time we reach some of the greatest
sites in the world - Aspendos, with one of the best preserved
Roman theatres and aqueducts, Perge, a city with great boulevards
and agoras lined with columns and baths swathed in marble - the
group has already seen the basics and can revel in such size and
magnificence.
Timing
Perhaps the other essential element in creating an archaeological
tour is timing. Above all don't cram in too much. I'd much rather
give everyone a chance to sit in a theatre and savour the scene,
nevermind the view, the birdsong, and the atmosphere, than cram
in three sites a day on a whirlwind mission. Don't travel in the
hottest months, and even when it's a cooler season, avoid the
heat of the day, for a start the light is all the better early
in the morning and later in the afternoon.
Always more to see
Whether it's getting to a restaurant for lunch, making sure the
drives aren't too long, or something unique like swimming at Patara
where St Nicholas was born, as the sun sinks like an orange orb
into the sea, timing is paramount. If that means leaving some
great sites out of a tour itinerary, that's fine, I always think
it's a good rule of thumb to leave some places unexplored so there's
always something special to come back for.
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